The City Code · Japan

Tokyo

The most exacting city in the world, and the gentlest about it.

Arriving

Haneda if you can choose — it is thirty minutes from the centre against Narita's ninety. Send luggage ahead by takkyubin rather than dragging it onto trains.

Book this first

The counter. The great sushi and kaiseki counters seat eight and book a month or more out, often only through a hotel concierge.

What is worn

Immaculate and covered. Slip-on shoes save you at every tatami room, temple and private dining space.

Money & manners

No tipping, ever — it causes genuine discomfort. Carry cash: superb small restaurants remain cash-only.

The golden hour

Six in the morning at a temple, and eleven at night in the back lanes, when the salarymen have gone and the bartenders relax.

The usual mistake

Treating Tokyo as one city. It is twenty villages; pick three and learn them.

Worth having

"Omakase" — I leave it to you. The most rewarding sentence in Japan.

When to come

March — see where to go, month by month.

From the collection

The stay, the table, the morning

While you are there

What moves the city

Season · 24 Mar to 8 Apr

Cherry blossom

Sakura peaks in the parks and along the Meguro river. Peak pricing and long waits at viewing spots; go at first light.

Public holiday · 29 Apr to 5 May

Golden Week

Japan's biggest domestic holiday run. Trains and hotels sell out nationwide; reserve seats as early as possible.

Go deeper

The rest of Tokyo on Velori

Elsewhere

Other city codes

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