The City Code · Türkiye
Istanbul
Two continents, one long lunch, and traffic that decides your day.
Arriving
A car from IST, and allow ninety minutes at any hour. Cross the Bosphorus by ferry instead of bridge whenever possible.
Book this first
A hamam appointment and the rooftop tables on the Bosphorus, which go to regulars first.
What is worn
Modest for the mosques — a scarf for women, covered knees for all.
Money & manners
Ten per cent at restaurants. Cash for the markets, where bargaining is expected and cheerful.
The golden hour
The first call to prayer at dawn, heard across the water from Karaköy.
The usual mistake
Planning three neighbourhoods in a day. The traffic will take them from you.
From the collection
The stay, the table, the morning
While you are there
What moves the city
Season · 17 Feb to 22 Mar
Ramadan and Eid
Iftar tables fill the squares; Eid closes offices for several days. Domestic travel is heavy over Eid and the Grand Bazaar closes on the first day.
Festival · 1 Apr to 30 Apr
Tulip Festival
Millions of tulips in Emirgan and Gulhane parks. The parks are crowded at weekends; go on a weekday morning.
Go deeper
The rest of Istanbul on Velori
Elsewhere
Other city codes
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